Friday Reads: The First Noel at the Villa des Violettes

The First Noël at the Villa des Violettes by Patricia Sands

Avignon: Les Halles

I can't resist a French food market, bursting with ripe fruit, a myriad of exotic cheeses and freshly baked breads. A picnic put together at one of these markets and then eaten by the Eiffel Tower in Paris or the seaside in Antibes would make a memorable travel experience. Alas, I’ve never done it. And when I visited Les Halles in Avignon it was too early for lunch. But along with the charcuterie and glistening seafood, I wanted to see the living green wall on this modern building on Place Pie.

A Scenic Picnic Spot, the Champ de Mars in Paris

Avignon: Street of the Dyers

At this time of year when I look out the window and it’s cold, dark and dreary, I really appreciate the uplifting effects of colour. And the vibrant print of a Provencal fabric never fails to put a smile on my face. The vivid yellows, reds and blues whisper ‘summer’ to me. Avignon’s Rue des Teinturiers, Street of the Dyers, is where these lively textiles originated.

A Rainbow of Provencal Prints

Roussillon, Village of Ochre

The Luberon region of Provence is a patchwork landscape of lush green vineyards; fields of lavender and sunflowers; and charming villages perchés, perched villages. One of the most colourful is the village of Roussillon, which owes the warm hues of its buildings to the world's largest known deposit of ochre. This natural earth pigment ranges in shade from yellow and orange to red and deep rusty brown, and has been used by painters since prehistoric man began decorating the walls of his cave.

The Luberon Village of Roussillon

The Lavender Museum

One of the many attractions for visitors to Provence is lavender, a flower beloved for its tranquil purple hues as well as its long-established medicinal properties and calming scent. Its tiny florets can also be used to enhance the flavour of foods like baked goods, chocolate and lemonade. During our outing to the Luberon I visited the Musée de la Lavande, Lavender Museum, in Coustellet to learn more about this iconic symbol of Provence.

Luberon Lavender Field

The Luberon: Peter Mayle's Provence

With his 1991 memoir A Year in Provence, Peter Mayle put this picturesque region in southeastern France on the radar of travellers. Once I began reading his books I too dreamed of visiting Provence, and all the beautiful photos I saw of endless rows of lavender stretching away to the horizon only reinforced my dream. So the day we journeyed into the Luberon countryside was the most anticipated day of our tour.

 

The Luberon Countryside

St. Rémy de Provence: Van Gogh's Asylum

One of the most productive periods of Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh’s life was the time he spent in the south of France. He’d hoped to establish a community of artists in the town of Arles with his friend, Paul Gauguin. Following an absinthe-fuelled argument with Gauguin, van Gogh sliced off his left earlobe with a razor blade. He then sought refuge from his inner demons at Saint Paul de Mausole Monastery in St. Rémy de Provence.

Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear, Vincent van Gogh (1889)
Courtauld Gallery, London

Carrières de Lumières: Art in a Quarry

If you enjoy art and would like to experience creative talent in a unique environment, consider a visit to a quarry dug deep into the foothills of the Alpilles Mountains of Provence. Carrières de Lumières is a venue for high tech multi-media shows that in past years have highlighted the works of Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Gustav Klimt and Vincent Van Gogh. The art featured in 2017 is The Fantastic and Wonderful World of Bosch, Brueghel & Arcimboldo.

The Fantastic and Wonderful World of Bosch, Brueghel & Arcimboldo
Carrières de Lumières, Les Baux de Provence

Market Day in St. Rémy

The first day trip out of Avignon on week two of our tour of southern France was to the town of St. Rémy de Provence. Our visit was planned for Wednesday – market day. This lively Provençal market features not only heaps of local produce and pans of steaming paella but also clothing, linens, housewares and crafts. Come along with me through the streets of St. Rémy’s Old Town and browse the market stalls.

St. Rémy de Provence on Market Day

Avignon, City of the Popes

A few years ago I had the opportunity to visit Avignon during a stop on a Rhone River cruise through Provence. The annual Avignon Festival was on and a brisk mistral wind was whipping through the streets –a whirlwind much like my visit. But last summer I spent a whole week there, staying at a hotel just outside the medieval ramparts only steps away from the historic city centre. This longer visit allowed me to see a quieter side of the City of the Popes, Avignon.

Medieval Rampart of Avignon

Aix-en-Provence: Cézanne's Hometown

The city of Aix-en-Provence is the mid-point between other major cities in the south of France. As such, both of my visits there have been little more than brief lunch stops on the way to somewhere else. The first time, while travelling from Arles to Monte Carlo, we arrived a little early so I had trouble even finding a proper lunch (but I had no problem getting a glass of rosé).

Cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence

St-Paul-de-Vence

After a morning spent touring Grasse, the perfume capital of the world, we moved on to visit some of France's famed perched villages. Of the many hill towns scattered throughout Provence and the Côte d'Azur, picturesque St-Paul-de-Vence is one of the most popular. The medieval town also attracted many of the twentieth century's most notable artists.

St-Paul-de-Vence, France

Grasse: Perfume Capital of the World

The town of Grasse isn't quite as picturesque as many others along France's Riviera coast but it is considered the capital of the world's billion dollar perfume industry. I spent a fragrant morning touring the local factory of Parfumerie Fragonard, one of the oldest in Grasse, to learn about the history of perfume and traditional production techniques.

Parfumerie Fragonard, Grasse

My Latest Trip to France

I’ve been absent from the blog for a few weeks but for a good reason – a visit to the sunny (and very, very hot) south of France, specifically Provence and the French Riviera. It’s taken a while to recover from my travels and the change in time zones so I haven’t sorted through all my photos yet but I couldn’t wait to share a few favourites with you.

Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera

Cruising the Rhone River

River cruising continues to grow in popularity and the Rhone is one of Europe’s major waterways, originating high in the Swiss Alps and flowing southward through France to the Mediterranean Sea. Along the way it passes through the rugged Ardeche and the scenic landscapes of Provence. Cruise itineraries operate in both directions and usually offer pre- or post-cruise stays in Paris. Here are some of the historic towns and cities you may visit on a Rhone River cruise.

River Cruise Vessels Docked in Lyon

3 Scenic Hill Towns

Some of the most scenic towns I've visited are those that are perched high atop a hill. These towns offer great views of the surrounding countryside and medieval buildings add to their charm. From Provence and the Cote d'Azur in the south of France, to the region of Tuscany in Italy, here are some photos of my three favourites.

Eze Village, France

Monte Carlo

St. Remy de Provence, July 2012 - We boarded our motor coach this morning at 9:00 a.m. and reunited with our cruise director to say farewell to Provence. We were about to embark on the final leg of our journey with Avalon Waterways enroute to the French Riviera and the tiny principality of Monaco.

A couple of hours later, Mont St. Victoire rose in the distance as we approached the city of Aix-en Provence for a mid-day lunch stop.

Mont St. Victoire

The Camargue, Delta of the Rhone

Port St. Louis, July 2012 - Situated at the mouth of the Rhone River, Port St. Louis marked the end of our river cruise through Burgundy and Provence with Avalon Waterways. We started the day with breakfast – and a mimosa – and then boarded a motor coach bound for St. Rémy de Provence for the Provence Extension to our tour.

The Quay in Port St. Louis

An Olive Farm & Les Baux de Provence

Arles, July, 2012 - It was the last day of our Rhone River cruise, and when we awoke this morning the Avalon Scenery was docked in Arles. Before visiting the town, we were taking an excursion into the Provençal countryside to an olive farm and the hilltop town of Les Baux de Provence.

Arles on the Rhone River

"X" is for Aix-en-Provence

This is Day 24 for the

Blogging from A to Z Challenge

for 2013.

The letter for today is a tough one but my choice of topic, the town of Aix-en-Provence in France, is known simply as 'Aix' (and pronounced 'X').

As the name suggests, the city of Aix is located in Provence. A large fountain at the centre of La Rotonde once marked the entry to the town.

La Rotonde Fountain, Aix-en-Provence