Thirty miles southwest of Florence in
the rolling hills of Tuscany is San Gimignano, the Town of Fine Towers. Our
visit to this UNESCO World Heritage Site was a pleasant break from the cultural
overload of Florence and Rome. Only 14 of the town’s original 72 towers remain
standing but they create a dramatic skyline. And while wandering the streets of
this picturesque town I sampled award-winning gelato, a traditional
Tuscan sausage and one of Italy’s oldest wines.
The Main Gate, Porta San Giovanni |
Via San Giovanni |
Arco dei Becci |
Via Palestro |
The 13-century well (cistern) on Piazza della Cisterna was once the town’s major source of water. Well-preserved medieval houses and defensive towers line this charming square.
Piazza della Cisterna
|
The Devil's Tower, Piazza della Cisterna |
On the east side of the piazza is the award-winning Gelateria Dondoli where Sergio Dondoli explained the process for making his gelato. His frozen confections are prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients and never more than 24-hours old.
Fresh Gelato at Gelateria Dondoli |
Many Flavours at Gelateria Dondoli |
I sampled three of the many unique varieties: Venere Nera (blackberries & lavender), Champelmo (pink grapefruit & sparkling wine) and Crema di Santa Fina (cream with saffron & pine nuts). Also known as “red gold”, saffron comes from the stigma of the crocus flower and has been cultivated in San Gimignano since medieval times.
Venere Nera, Blackberries and Lavender |
Three Scoops of Dondoli Gelato |
All three flavours were delicious and refreshing on a hot summer day! I was interested to learn that Dondoli also served his tasty gelato to the cast and crew of the 1999 film Tea with Mussolini (link to the movie trailer).
On adjacent Piazza del Duomo is the Romanesque Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta with some fine fifteenth century frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio. These frescoes were featured in scenes from the movie.
Piazza del Duomo |
Piazza del Duomo |
For lunch we followed our tour director’s excellent recommendation, Armando e Marcella Pasticceria, for a quick sandwich and a glass of the local Vernaccia wine. This crisp, dry white is one of Italy’s oldest, dating from Renaissance times. And for dessert we chose the Ricciarelli, a traditional almond cookie that originated in Siena.
Tomato, Parma Ham and Mozzarella |
Vernaccia Wine |
Ricciarelli |
After lunch we browsed the town’s shops which cater mainly to tourists. The windows are filled with colourful ceramics, dried pasta in myriad shapes and colours and cans of local extra-virgin olive oil.
Chianti Wine and Pasta |
In the specialty food shops where cinghiale or wild boar sausage is sold, ferocious-looking stuffed boars guard bottles of Chianti wine. I sampled the sausage and the meat is very lean with a flavour similar to pork.
San Gimignano Food Shop |
Cinghiale, Wild Boar |
Tuscan Prosciutto and Salami |
Samples of Cheese and Cinghiale or Wild Boar Sausage |
On our way back to the parking lot I stopped to admire the view of the countryside below – a peaceful vista of vineyards, cypress trees and terracotta rooftops. Then we returned to Florence for our last night in Tuscany before moving on to the Ligurian coast and the scenic Italian Riviera.
The Tuscan Countryside |
Next: My Bucket List: Firenze
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