Destination: Fiction: 2017

December 18, 2017

Nice: The Hotel Negresco

The Promenade des Anglais in Nice is a fitting Côte d’Azur address for the five-star Hotel Negresco. Since its opening in 1913, this belle époque gem has welcomed royalty and celebrities like Princess Grace of Monaco, The Beatles and Salvador Dali. A visit to La Negresco’s Bar for a pre-dinner cocktail gave me the perfect excuse to explore the public areas of this luxury seaside hotel.

Hotel Negresco, Nice

Avignon: Les Halles

I can't resist a French food market, bursting with ripe fruit, a myriad of exotic cheeses and freshly baked breads. A picnic put together at one of these markets and then eaten by the Eiffel Tower in Paris or the seaside in Antibes would make a memorable travel experience. Alas, I’ve never done it. And when I visited Les Halles in Avignon it was too early for lunch. But along with the charcuterie and glistening seafood, I wanted to see the living green wall on this modern building on Place Pie.

A Scenic Picnic Spot, the Champ de Mars in Paris

Avignon: Street of the Dyers

At this time of year when I look out the window and it’s cold, dark and dreary, I really appreciate the uplifting effects of colour. And the vibrant print of a Provencal fabric never fails to put a smile on my face. The vivid yellows, reds and blues whisper ‘summer’ to me. Avignon’s Rue des Teinturiers, Street of the Dyers, is where these lively textiles originated.

A Rainbow of Provencal Prints

Roussillon, Village of Ochre

The Luberon region of Provence is a patchwork landscape of lush green vineyards; fields of lavender and sunflowers; and charming villages perchés, perched villages. One of the most colourful is the village of Roussillon, which owes the warm hues of its buildings to the world's largest known deposit of ochre. This natural earth pigment ranges in shade from yellow and orange to red and deep rusty brown, and has been used by painters since prehistoric man began decorating the walls of his cave.

The Luberon Village of Roussillon

The Lavender Museum

One of the many attractions for visitors to Provence is lavender, a flower beloved for its tranquil purple hues as well as its long-established medicinal properties and calming scent. Its tiny florets can also be used to enhance the flavour of foods like baked goods, chocolate and lemonade. During our outing to the Luberon I visited the Musée de la Lavande, Lavender Museum, in Coustellet to learn more about this iconic symbol of Provence.

Luberon Lavender Field

The Luberon: Peter Mayle's Provence

With his 1991 memoir A Year in Provence, Peter Mayle put this picturesque region in southeastern France on the radar of travellers. Once I began reading his books I too dreamed of visiting Provence, and all the beautiful photos I saw of endless rows of lavender stretching away to the horizon only reinforced my dream. So the day we journeyed into the Luberon countryside was the most anticipated day of our tour.

The Luberon Countryside

St. Rémy de Provence: Van Gogh's Asylum

One of the most productive periods of Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh’s life was the time he spent in the south of France. He’d hoped to establish a community of artists in the town of Arles with his friend, Paul Gauguin. Following an absinthe-fuelled argument with Gauguin, van Gogh sliced off his left earlobe with a razor blade. He then sought refuge from his inner demons at Saint Paul de Mausole Monastery in St. Rémy de Provence.

Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear, Vincent van Gogh (1889)
Courtauld Gallery, London

Carrières de Lumières: Art in a Quarry

If you enjoy art and would like to experience creative talent in a unique environment, consider a visit to a quarry dug deep into the foothills of the Alpilles Mountains of Provence. Carrières de Lumières is a venue for high tech multi-media shows that in past years have highlighted the works of Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Gustav Klimt and Vincent Van Gogh. The art featured in 2017 is The Fantastic and Wonderful World of Bosch, Brueghel & Arcimboldo.

The Fantastic and Wonderful World of Bosch, Brueghel & Arcimboldo
Carrières de Lumières, Les Baux de Provence

Market Day in St. Rémy

The first day trip out of Avignon on week two of our tour of southern France was to the town of St. Rémy de Provence. Our visit was planned for Wednesday – market day. This lively Provençal market features not only heaps of local produce and pans of steaming paella but also clothing, linens, housewares and crafts. Come along with me through the streets of St. Rémy’s Old Town and browse the market stalls.

St. Rémy de Provence on Market Day

Avignon, City of the Popes

A few years ago I had the opportunity to visit Avignon during a stop on a Rhone River cruise through Provence. The annual Avignon Festival was on and a brisk mistral wind was whipping through the streets –a whirlwind much like my visit. But last summer I spent a whole week there, staying at a hotel just outside the medieval ramparts only steps away from the historic city centre. This longer visit allowed me to see a quieter side of the City of the Popes, Avignon.

Medieval Rampart of Avignon

Aix-en-Provence: Cézanne's Hometown

The city of Aix-en-Provence is the mid-point between other major cities in the south of France. As such, both of my visits there have been little more than brief lunch stops on the way to somewhere else. The first time, while travelling from Arles to Monte Carlo, we arrived a little early so I had trouble even finding a proper lunch (but I had no problem getting a glass of rosé).

Cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence

Picasso Museum, Antibes

In the years following World War II, Spanish artist Pablo Picasso spent a happy period of his life living and working in the south of France. He established a studio in Antibes at Château Grimaldi and in just a few months he created 23 paintings and 44 drawings. In 1966 the chateau became the first museum dedicated to Picasso’s work.

Musée Picasso, Antibes

Market Day in Antibes

I'm back on track after being without my computer for a month, and continuing with posts about my recent trip to France. My week on the fabulous Côte d’Azur was coming to an end and the last daytrip on this portion of our itinerary took us to Antibes. First settled as a Greek trading post named Antipolis, this ancient town is 20 kilometers west of Nice on the Mediterranean coast.

Antibes, France

Princess Diana Remembered

I've had some issues with my computer lately so this post, which I'd planned for the anniversary of the death of Diana, Princess of Wales, is quite a bit late. When August 31st came around I couldn't believe it had been twenty years since I heard about that fatal car crash in Paris. I must've watched at least a dozen TV specials about her tragic life and the conspiracy theories surrounding her untimely death. It got me thinking about the places I've been that played a role in the story of a woman still remembered around the world, and known with fondness as the "People's Princess".

Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed

Monaco-Ville: Take Two

As with my morning visit to the French hill town of Eze, my afternoon in the nearby Principality of Monaco was also a repeat visit. Would I see anything that I hadn't seen before in what may be the most glamorous of locales on the very glamorous Côte d'Azur?

Tour Bus at Monaco's Palace Square

Eze: The Exotic Garden

Eze Village on the Côte d'Azur has an amazing Jardin exotique, Exotic Garden, at the summit of the hill on which the town is perched. To my regret I didn't venture quite that far on my previous visit to Eze. On my recent trip to France, I got a second chance.

Exotic Garden, Eze Village

St-Paul-de-Vence

After a morning spent touring Grasse, the perfume capital of the world, we moved on to visit some of France's famed perched villages. Of the many hill towns scattered throughout Provence and the Côte d'Azur, picturesque St-Paul-de-Vence is one of the most popular. The medieval town also attracted many of the twentieth century's most notable artists.

St-Paul-de-Vence, France

Grasse: Perfume Capital of the World

The town of Grasse isn't quite as picturesque as many others along France's Riviera coast but it is considered the capital of the world's billion dollar perfume industry. I spent a fragrant morning touring the local factory of Parfumerie Fragonard, one of the oldest in Grasse, to learn about the history of perfume and traditional production techniques.

Parfumerie Fragonard, Grasse

Chagall Museum, Nice

Marc Chagall is one of the great painters of the twentieth century, known for his simple scenes, biblical themes and brilliant colours. The Musée national Marc Chagall was inaugurated in 1973 on the artist's 86th birthday and it's the first time a French national museum has been devoted to an artist while he was still alive.

Song of Songs III, by Marc Chagall
Musée national Marc Chagall, Nice

Promenade du Paillon, Nice

There's a coastal river that runs from the Alpes-Maritimes through the French city of Nice. But you won't be able to see it at the point where the Old Town and the modern city meet. This river, the Paillon, now flows beneath a 12-hectare public park, the Promenade du Paillon.

Gardens of the Promenade du Paillon, Nice

Nice: the Resort

Nice is more than just a large city in France – it's also a major Riviera resort. With its prime location on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea it was only a matter of time before people fled the cold climate of northern Europe for the sun and surf of the Côte d'Azur.

Vieux Nice, the Old Town

During the first week of our tour of southern France we stayed in the Old Town of Nice, Vieux Nice. The city’s past under Italian rulers is reflected in the sunset colours and contrasting shutters of its buildings, and its scenic location between the Alps and Mediterranean has drawn sun-seeking tourists since the 19th century.

Vieux Nice, the Old Town of Nice

My Latest Trip to France

I’ve been absent from the blog for a few weeks but for a good reason – a visit to the sunny (and very, very hot) south of France, specifically Provence and the French Riviera. It’s taken a while to recover from my travels and the change in time zones so I haven’t sorted through all my photos yet but I couldn’t wait to share a few favourites with you.

Villefranche-sur-Mer on the French Riviera

5 Traditional British Beverages

In my last post I looked at seven traditional British foods, including the ubiquitous fish & chips and that favourite from the West Country, Cornish pasties. Today I'm featuring five beverages that are not only beloved by the Brits but have become part of the nation's social fabric. And what better place to start than with tea?

Tea at The Orangerie, Kensington Palace

7 Traditional British Foods

The traditional food favourites in Great Britain may not be as well regarded as those of its neighbour across the Channel but they're more down to earth than the haute cuisine of France. Think family meals, comfort food and sustenance for the hard working man.