Aix-en-Provence: Cézanne's Hometown

The city of Aix-en-Provence is the mid-point between other major cities in the south of France. As such, both of my visits there have been little more than brief lunch stops on the way to somewhere else. The first time, while travelling from Arles to Monte Carlo, we arrived a little early so I had trouble even finding a proper lunch (but I had no problem getting a glass of rosé).

Cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence

My First "Lunch" in Aix

More recently, on the way from Nice to Avignon, I enjoyed a tasty Greek salad (with another glass of rosé) at a historic café on the stylish Cours Mirabeau.

My Second Lunch in Aix

Cours Mirabeau is a major thoroughfare in Aix, with wide sidewalks shaded by plane trees, numerous cafés, and moss-covered fountains. The promenade begins at La Rotonde, once the entryway to the city, and ends at the King René Fountain.

La Rotonde, Aix-en-Provence

La Rotonde Fountain

The Mossy Fountain, Aix-en-Provence

Fountain of the Nine Canons, Aix-en-Provence

King René Fountain, Aix-en-Provence

Statue of King René

Les Deux Garçons dates from 1792 and, according to the back of my menu, was frequented by such celebrated patrons as Sir Winston Churchill, Pablo Picasso and local son, Paul Cézanne.

Les Deux Garçons, Aix-en-Provence

The city boasts a trail of sites important in the life of Paul Cézanne (indicated by brass markers in the sidewalks) but there aren’t any paintings to be seen here. I did, however, see several works by Cézanne in London last year at the National and Courtauld Galleries. The Provençal countryside was a favourite subject of the artist, especially nearby Montagne Sainte-Victoire.

Statue of Paul Cézanne, Aix-en-Provence

Cézanne Trail Marker

Self Portrait, Paul Cézanne
National Gallery, London

Hillside in Provence, Paul Cézanne
National Gallery, London

The Montagne Sainte-Victoire, Paul Cézanne
Courtauld Gallery, London

Montagne Sainte-Victoire, Approaching Aix

Montagne Sainte-Victoire, Entering Aix

I’ve never spent enough time in Aix-en-Provence to really know the city but at least on this visit I was able to take a quick jaunt through the streets of the Old Town.

Old Town of Aix-en-Provence

Unfortunately at mid-day many of the stores were closed so I couldn’t buy any of the traditional sweets, calissons. And soon we had to board our motor coach again for the final leg of our journey to the City of the Popes, Avignon.

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“X” is for Aix-en-Provence